Bow ties galore—Laurent Desgrange

The bow tie, once regulated to strict preppies and conservative college professors, has exploded into a men’s fashion staple over the past few years…and it shows no sign of waning. This simple rectangle of fabric, tied into a bowknot, can add a jolt of personality to any gentlemen’s wardrobe.

Above: A playful display of Laurent Desgrange’s exuberant bow ties in a smorgasbord of colors, shapes and sizes.

French designer, Laurent Desgrange, has been pushing the boundaries of the traditional bow tie (albeit the clip on bow tie) with some wit and panache for the past few years...and he doesn’t disappoint with his look book for Spring/Summer 2011.

Mr. Desgrange playfully experiments with the scale of the bow tie.

And he even elevates a sneaker with playful bows.

Of course Mr. Peacock adores the toile shirt (which will be available in blue and red).

You don’t have to wait until next spring to wear one of Mr. Desgrange's hand made bow ties.

This dark blue satin tie, with tiny bead detailing, would be chic for summer weddings.

And I love this black & white houndstooth “origami” tie.

Each tie comes with satin ribbon and a clip—so you can wear it however you prefer. They’re not just for the gents either; the ladies can wear them as a belt, headband, or hair clip.

Admittedly, Mr. Desgranges daring use of bow ties might not suit every gentleman peacock, however, his exquisite shapes and fabrics will seduce even the most conservative of old-school bow tie aficionados.

Crazy for khaki!

(click image above to enlarge)
After a weekend of rainbow colors, khaki seems like a nice respite. Don’t get me wrong, Mr. Peacock loves colors, but I also like a nice khaki too. The color khaki comes from the Persian word khak which means dust. Many armies around the world have used the color khaki for their uniforms and camouflage. To many gents, Khakis have become synonymous for meaning casual pants (think chinos), but don’t limit your wardrobe to just khaki colored pants. Here’s some of Mr. Peacock’s favorite khaki colored items:

1) Mr. Peacock adores this cotton khaki tuxedo with contrasting black silk twill detailing and notched collar. The underside of the collar lining is embroidered with tiny contrasting skull-and-cross bones. The pants have black silk twill taping down the legs, with unfinished cuffs (to either roll or have hemmed).

2) This khaki tie is unlined and has selvage at both ends and made with fabric from Japan.

3) I’ve worn out many pairs of checkered Vans, and blue or white Keds over the years…but I’ve never had a pair of khaki canvas Keds like these!

4) A khaki colored twill briefcase, with chocolate leather trim, that is seasonably chic and utilitarian too!

5) This military inspired khaki hat would be great while reading a book at the beach, or just running errands.

6) This mid-century inspired chair is upholstered in a khaki colored army duck fabric—similar to what was used by armies for tents and uniforms. I think the khaki fabric gives it a warm masculine touch and would integrate well with most interiors. It's on sale here.

7) This khaki and black color blocked button down shirt would look great addition to any wardrobe—and would be a great year-round piece.

8) I also like these khaki canvas sneakers with an espadrille inspired jute detailing, and a leather detail in the back. They’re made of canvas, leather, hemp, and rubber.

Khaki, beige, tan, dust...whatever you want to call the color, is a great addition to any gentleman’s wardrobe. Do you have any khaki colored items, besides pants, in your wardrobe?

Mr. P's favorite T's

The weather is heating up and it's time for flip-flops, shorts and t-shirts. "A picture speaks a thousand words"…and so can a t-shirt. T-shirts can become very sentimental possessions referencing a special event or time in your life. Here's some of Mr. Peacock's current favorite t-shirts, maybe one of these will become your favorite too.

Mr. Peacock loves the Danish label Wood Wood, created in 2002. This Wood Wood tee is a pie chart showing the religions of the world.

There's a plethora of t-shirts that give homage to The Smiths.

This Charming Man, How Soon is Now? Oh the memories….

You either love or hate The Smiths….

And it the people…, Death of a Disco Dancer, To be gentle and kind.

These Laurent Desgrange t-shirts are made from collages.

They are packaged like vinyl LP records.

Is your head is in the clouds…or do you feel like a sad cloud?

American Apparel has created a series of "Library" t-shirts using historical images such as juveniles dispersing from the Los Angeles police on Sunset Strip in 1966, or a pair at a Gay Pride Parade in West Hollywood in1984. It will be interesting to see if they continue this series of t-shirts.

Arthur Conan Doyle wrote Hound of the Baskervilles (see my homage to Sherlock Holmes). It's immortalized as a t-shirt here. This lady cop t-shirt is by Patrick Nagel (remember the Duran Duran Rio cover?).

This double trouble t-shirt will make anyone smile. Mr. Peacock likes the "tennis tail" on this iconic number tee.

Opposites attract. This love/hate t-shirt weighs in on timely issues. "Okay is not okay"…..references the Berlin dj duo, but it could be a mantra for anyone.

Mr. Peacock likes this architectural mustache man t-shirt. It reminds me of the interior of my kitchen cabinets. The bearded man t-shirt looks like an illustration from a fable.

This scientific illustration of mushrooms looks striking on this tee.

Color block t-shirts always look good. I like the combination of red, yellow, ivory and blue of this t-shirt.

Even if you don't party at The Chateau Marmont, you can still own a souvenir t-shirt.

You can peek at my previous favorite t-shirts here. What's going to be your favorite t-shirt this summer?

Birthday Salute to Bunny Roger

Neil Munroe “Bunny” Roger was the epitomy of a gentleman peacock. This phenomenon of energy possessed wit, good taste and enormous courage. He was famous as a couturier for wealthy women, and had a reputation for throwing some of the most extravagant parties of the last century. His colorful persona can be considered an acquired taste for some folks, however, his original flair and joy for life can’t be denied.

Above: Bunny Roger with his younger brother, Alexander, "Sandy" in 1962.

This eccentric socialite (and fellow Gemini) was born on June 9, 1911—the middle of 3 boys. His father was a self-made business tycoon, and his mother was a natural beauty who liked culture and fashion, which undoubtedly rubbed off on Bunny (a nickname from infancy given to him from a nanny). Bunny, along with his brothers, Sandy and Alan, were life-long bachelors and remained close their entire lives.

During the Second World War he saw active duty in Italy and North Africa. He claimed to have advanced through enemy lines wearing a chiffon scarf and carrying a copy of Vogue.

Above: Neil "Bunny" Roger photographed in London in 1954 by fellow peacock, Norman Parkinson.

This dandy had many notable bon mots including: “When in doubt…powder.” One of his favored colors was “menopausal mauve.” Beneath his flamboyant exterior was an encyclopedic and formidably well-read mind, and courteous man.

After the war he opened his own shop, Neil Roger, with a £1000 backing from his father. His clients included Vivien Leigh and Princess Marina.

Each year he would purchase 15 custom Savile Row suits, of his own designs, in the best fabrics and colors—including lilac, cerulean, and canary yellow (above from his estate auction catalog 1998). He often had several pairs of the same shoe made when he found a favorite leather color or type.

Above: A peek in one of Bunny Roger's closets. It reminds Mr. Peacock of Tartan Scot's closet.

In the last decades of his life, during his routine walks to lunch at Fortnum & Mason, he enjoyed people staring at his neo-Edwardian inspired attire and signature silhouette—broad shoulders (40” chest), narrow waist (29”), and small feet (size 7)!

Above: The living room of Roger's house on Addison Road in London.

Bunny and his brothers hosted many fabulous parties and balls over the decades at their homes. In their day, these extravaganzas were outrageous and very eccentric. His “Fetish” party in 1956 made the gossip pages of the newspaper.

At his “Amethyst” Ball, celebrating his 70th birthday in 1981, Bunny wore a catsuit with an egret feather headdress (above). A decade later, he made an entrance at his “Ball of Fire” 80th birthday ball, emerging through fire and smoke to the applause of 400 friends!

Above: A sampling of Mr. Roger's wardrobe from the auction catalog of his estate, 1998.

Quoting Bunny’s obituary (April 1997) written by Clive Fisher in The Independent, “… He was true: beneath his mauve mannerisms he was stalwart, frank, dependable and undeceived; to onlookers a passing peacock, to intimates a life enhancer and exemplary friend.”

Mr. Peacock tips his bowler in salutation to Neil “Bunny” Roger for living his life with his own conviction and style.

Elbows to the Grindstone…

As of late, Mr. Peacock has noticed some of his favorite jackets and shirts are showing some wear on the elbows—specifically the right elbow. It's probably from rubbing my elbow on my desktop when I use the computer mouse. I guess I need to add some elbow patches.

The past few years have seen a revival in elbow pads in menswear. For some of us peacocks, however, elbow pads have always been a mainstay in our wardrobes.

Elbow patches began as a strictly functional repair—a way to hide wear and tear on jackets, shirts or sweaters. Over time they became mere decoration...and somewhat of a cliché...think of a pipe-smoking gent in a tweedy jacket with oval suede elbow patches standing by a fireplace. The elbow patches of today are far from cliché, and aren’t limited to just oval swatches of suede.

This jacket is traditional tweed, but the elongated rectangle elbow patches are very modern.

This corduroy blazer with suede elbow patches is a classic piece—and I love the lining too!

Mr. Peacock loves this modernized tweed hunting jacket with beautiful pocket detailing...

...and elbow patches. It's at the top of my holiday wish list! (here's another tweed jacket—with tweed elbow pads).

You won’t feel like Mr. Rodgers in this simple and elegant camel colored wool cardigan sweater with leather patches. It's also available in navy.

This slim red cardigan with leather buttons and suede elbow patches and would be festive this season.

Mr. Peacock likes the contrasting red wool buffalo plaid elbow pads on this navy crew knit sweater.

Here’s a navy merino wool turtleneck with elbow patches.

This vintage inspired Pendleton shirt with suede elbow pads looks cozy.

Another vintage inspired shirt with elbow pads.

Buffalo plaid is given a different twist as a rugby shirt with elbow pads.

You can find ready-made elbow patches at your local fabric store and sew them onto your own garments—or have a tailor sew them on for you.

Remember to keep your elbows to the grindstone and stay warm!

Mr. Peacock's Cashmere Sock Sweater

My father wasn’t into having a lot of possessions, but he was very particular about the way he dressed. I never saw him wear flip-flops or sneakers—only lace up oxfords or golf shoes (both usually alligator) and always with black or charcoal gray cashmere socks.

When my father passed away in the early 90’s, we gathered enough cashmere socks to fill a hefty trash bag. My sister was ready to send them off to Goodwill, but I wasn’t ready to part with them (I’m a sentimental hoarder). They sat in the bag for some time—I wasn’t sure what to do with them. Some of the socks were well worn with a hole or two, while others looked brand new—but all of them were either black or charcoal gray...and very soft.

One weekend I sorted all of the socks by color (black or gray) and if they had any holes (usually on the heel). I started cutting the holes off and splitting the socks open, and realized I had a generous swatch of cashmere. I decided to patchwork them together—not sure what I would end up with...maybe a throw blanket. I decided to try and make a patchwork sweater out of my cashmere sock pieces.

Here’s how Mr. Peacock made his cashmere sock sweater. Whether you’re an experienced crafter or a newbie, this project is fairly forgiving—“mistakes” and haphazard stitching add to the uniqueness of the sweater. This sweater doesn’t have a neat and tailored cut, it's more of a bohemian loose style. I would plan on dedicating a weekend to finish this project. I hand stitched it, because I think it added to the style of the sweater, but you could certainly use a sewing machine.

Here’s the tools you will need:

• Needle & Heavy duty thread—I used a heavy upholstery thread
• 
Straight pins
Sharp
• Scissors

• Glue stick

• Sharpies
• 
Ruler

• Newspaper

• Sweater Shaver—you can get them for a few bucks at discount stores like Walgreens (my mom gave me one years ago, I though it was a joke, but this little tool is amazing—it “shaves” off any pilling or loose threads on wool or cashmere without damaging the garment)
• A bag of old cashmere or wool socks (you could also use a few old holey cashmere or wool sweaters instead of socks)

First you'll want to make a "pattern" for your patchwork sock sweater from a favorite existing pull-over sweater in your wardrobe.

Glue stick pieces of newspaper together and lay out on the floor. Place your sweater on top of the newspaper and trace with a sharpie pen.

The lines don't have to be perfect, but if you prefer you can use a ruler. Cut the pattern out along the lines and set aside.

Wash all of the socks in hot water and throw them in a dryer. They’ll shrink a bit, but the washing process will almost “felt” the wool or cashmere and deter unraveling when you cut the pieces. I don’t recommend cotton because it will tend to unravel and be problematic.

After you wash and dry your socks, carefully shave any pilling (little balls and bumps) or excessive fuzziness.

You can now begin cutting the pieces. I was somewhat methodical about cutting. First I cut the tops off (make sure to save 2 elasticized tops for your sleeve bottoms), then the heels, and so forth. The goal is to get large swatches of cashmere (or wool).


I stacked the pieces into like colors and textures (some were smooth, and some were ribbed). I then laid them out on the floor over my paper pattern, leaving enough to cover the pattern—until I was pleased with the arrangement of the shapes. It’s good to mix the colors and textures. I then pinned all of the pieces together, and repeated the entire process.

I used a basting stitch (above), with course upholstery thread. Baste all of the pieces together—leaving a ¼ inch seam allowance on the corners.

Above: A couple of patchwork sweaters from Comme des Garçons Winter 2009 season for inspiration. You can mix patterned socks with solids for your homemade patchwork sweater.

You should have 2 basted patch worked pieces of socks that fit over your newspaper pattern. Place the pieces together, with the basted sides facing out. Lay the pattern on top, and pin the 2 pieces together, using the pattern perimeter as your guide. Don’t pin the bottom of the sleeve openings or the neck opening. Baste these together, and remove all of the pins.

Above: Dolce & Gabbana featured a few patchwork sweaters in their Winter 2008 collection. It's the same idea as my sweater—I like the gray palette.

Carefully try on the sweater. Now is the time to make any adjustments, like making the sleeves tighter, the sleeves longer (I made my sleeves longer), or the body length shorter or longer (I left mine shorter).

Now take the 2 saved elasticized sock tops and baste each one on the end of the sleeves (inside out).

With the sweater inside out, go over all of the seams with a blanket stitch (above). Trim the neck to your liking. I chose a boat style neck on my sweater. Blanket stitch along the entire edge of the neck. Carefully remove any loose threads, and it's ready to go. I think the sweater looks equally appealing with the sewn seams showing, or turned inside with the sewn seams hidden—it just depends on your mood and style.

Above: Mr. Peacock loves the knitwear by Clare Tough—a couple sweaters from 2008. I like the addition of the asymmetrical zipper.

Depending on your sewing experience, you could add a zipper or buttons on the front of your patchwork sweater.

As I said, this project is fairly simple, even if you are a beginner crafter. Once you get started, the process will make more sense to you. This patchwork sweater would make a great gift too. If you start this weekend you can make one as a holiday gift...and one for yourself!