Adieu Tobias Wong

Mr Peacock was taken aback when he read about the passing of artist, Tobias Wong (above, from Esquire 2007) this week. I didn't know this fellow Gemini peacock personally, but it pained me deeply reading his obituary.

Whenever these tragedies happen (as with Alexander McQueen), I want to swoop in at their moment of despair and help them see a glimmer of hope. A personal friend of mine, took their own life last year, and I’m still saddened and in shock.

Here’s some of Mr. Peacock’s favorite Tobias Wong pieces.

Cokespoon #1 2005

Part of his INDULGANCES range (for the man that has absolutely everything). Gold plated, bronze cast Bic pen cap. Get your own here.

Cokespoon #2 (with Ken Courtney) 2005

Based on the 1980’s McDonald’s coffee stirrer.

Silver Pills 1998

“24 hours of pure silver leaf—so your shit will sparkle”

Calling Card 2002

Laser cut semi-transparent film stock with web address laser engraved.

Tattoo 2002

Tobias Wong asked artist Jenny Holzer (at an exhibit of hers) to write a maxim “Protect me from what I want” and signed it in ink on his arm. Mr. Wong turned it into a tattoo.

Money Pad 2000

100 real dollar bills bound with peelable notepad glue and cardboard backing.

Ballistic Rose 2004

Part of the permanent collection of MoMA New York. Get one here.

Mr. Peacock sends his heartfelt sympathy to Mr. Wong’s partner and family.

A Peacock in Brooklyn…

Photograph by howardgoldbergphotography.com

Dennis Cahlo is a Brooklyn based musician and aspiring composer, originally hailing from Staten Island. He chronicles his quest for great menswear and the importance of well-fitting clothing on his blog, Made To Measure. He candidly shares his experiences about getting his clothing tailored and purchasing bespoke pieces.

This well-groomed and elegant peacock favors classic menswear pieces in navy blue and grays. Underneath his well-tailored wardrobe Dennis is building a collection of colorful tattoos. His goal is to have full sleeves in the next 2 years. His latest tattoo is a Geisha pin-up girl.


Mr. Peacock: When did you acquire your first made to measure item in your wardrobe?
Dennis: Believe it or not, my first made to measure suit was done by Indochino about a year ago (above and below photo show custom suit details). After that, I find it very tough to go back to off the rack. Although Hugo Boss is one of the only OTR that usually fits me perfectly straight away.

How would you describe your own style?
Cary Grant having lunch with the male cast of Quadrophenia—with a quick visit from James Dean at the table.

Above: Dennis looking classically elegant in his tux with his custom shirt from Alexander West. As Dennis summed it up, "Once I put it on, I had the full realization of just how good the fit is. Every part hugged by body perfectly and there was no need at all for tailoring."


How old were you when you realized you were a peacock?
Growing up Roman Catholic I had to have a communion. My mother bought me my first all white suit and I absolutely fell in love with the idea of getting "dressed up." I stared in the mirror for a while thinking of how great the suit looked and how confident I felt in it. It was all very natural; like a second skin.

Above: Lean and mean in his tailored suits...and take note of his sliver of a pocket square—perfectly folded.

Do you have a favorite menswear designer or brand?
I tend not to discriminate. To me, it's never about the brand or designer. It's all about the fit. I can find stuff from a “no name” that fits better than Prada...or have it tailored perfectly.

Do you have a particular item of clothing you're obsessed with?
As a matter of fact, yes. Anything in navy blue! I have 3 navy jackets, 3 navy suits, navy slacks and many pairs of navy socks. I don't know what it is about that color but it makes me feel so good when I wear it and it can be combined with many patterns as well as solids.

What's your favorite item in your wardrobe
My favorite item (at the moment) is a pair of DKNY cap toe oxfords I found for $30. They go with virtually everything in my wardrobe from jeans to a tuxedo.

Above left to right: His favorite cap toe oxfords; $89.99 beauties from Alfani; and a bargain pair of vintage wingtips.

Do you wear vintage clothes or only "new" clothes?
I definitely like to marry both elements into my wardrobe. New is great, but sometimes you come across an old pair of Cordovan shoes sitting in a junk shop/thrift store that may just need a resoling, shine, and some shoe trees to bring them back to life. Those $8 treasures with an extra $14 investment are sometimes more gratifying than anything you can find new.

Style icon?
David Bowie (below: a dapper Bowie—then and now, with his wife Iman).

Tote bag, satchel or messenger bag?
Satchel.

What would be your dream purchase right now?
I would buy a Townhouse in Brooklyn.

Above: A peek inside the tidy and organized summer wardrobe of Mr. Cahlo.

Any sartorial disasters you can share?
I used to have blue hair, braces, and wear over sized clothing in High School. I was a total disaster, but at least I was punk rock.

Any menswear trends you adore? or abhor?
Adore: Fitted suits, shirts, and slim line shoes. 
 Abhor: Flip flops!

Above left to right: Dennis casually attired, yet still looking very polished, wearing boots and a leather jacket—a gift from his girlfriend; and a $30 washed cotton jacket from Urban Outfitters.

What city has the best-dressed men?
It's a toss up between Rome and Milan.


What are your favorite fashion magazines?

I'm very middle of the road with this. I subscribe to GQ, Details, and I am very fond of Menswear Magazine (by Fairchild—note from Mr. Peacock...does anyone know if they're still publishing this title?) when I can find it. I read more blogs these days just because the opinions are more real and not sponsored. I love GQ but how many men can honestly afford a $500 pair of cashmere socks?


My father only wore black or gray cashmere socks! They're definitely a luxury item Mr. Peacock can't justify. What are you looking forward to wearing this autumn?

This season I am very into heavy tweeds, muted colors, work boots, medium weight suits, and long over coats...and my favorite wool-driving cap!

Any style advice for fellow peacocks?
a. Define yourself by yourself.

b. Do not fall into trends, but stay current.

c. Always go for the proper fit. (ie...If you squeeze into a suit too small, you will look like a sausage).

Above: Dennis toasts made to measure menswear (it's water, not vodka).

Mr. Peacock couldn’t agree more about proper fitting clothes for any gentleman's wardrobe—and the importance of a good tailor, and finding brands that suit your body type. I also admire Dennis’s tenacity at consistently upgrading and editing his wardrobe—and his commitment to amassing his tattoos. Stop by Made To Measure and take a peek at his advice (and trial and tribulations) with bespoke clothing and tailoring. Thanks Dennis!

Square Dancin’

A suit is an essential wardrobe investment piece for any gentleman. A pocket square is a great way to add some flair to your ensemble and keep your suit looking fresh. This small piece of fabric (silk, wool, cotton) will give you a touch of color and decoration—which can really make your suit come alive and “dance”.

Above left to right: Cator has a magical touch with his pocket squares; Aaron fancies gingham squares; Barima likes to mix it up; and Todd's pocket kerchief is always tidy and elegant.

Many peacocks express their personality with their pocket square. Some gentlemen meticulously fold their kerchief, while other gents casually drape it into their pocket. There isn't a right or wrong method to "folding" a pocket square. You just have to figure out what works for your personality and taste.

Purples & pinks can add a romantic touch to a dark suit (charcoal gray suit above), but still be masculine.

Above from left to right: This purple & burgundy pocket square reminds me of a Moroccan tile; purple paisley—you know Mr. Peacock likes purple; an elegant periwinkle square; and this fuschia kerchief reminds me of a pink magic carpet.

Mr. Peacock is obsessed with this amazing Navy Lace Print kerchief.

I’m fascinated by the intricate details of the printed "lace" pattern.

Pocket squares with blues & reds always look nice too.

Above: Etro creates decadent and rich patterned pocket squares; a classic polka dot pocket square—I love polka dots; and these selvedge chambray pocket squares look vintage.

Yellows & oranges will add a sparkle to any gray or dark suit (charcoal suit above).

Above: Mustard yellow square; a classic red paisley kerchief—I love paisley too; an orange and brown plaid; a rich looking paisley with orange highlights.

These beautiful Bird of Paradise pocket squares use greens & browns, which would look handsome with almost any suit...and perfect for fall. They're a blend of wool and silk.


Grays & blacks are always an elegant choice for coordinating with your suit.

Above clockwise from top left: Italian paisleys and medallions; a gray and black striped square; a sophisticated black polka dot with a purple trim; a subtle selvedge striped chambray pocket square.


These Italian ties and pocket squares are sold in coordinating sets. You can see how easy it is to mix and coordinate a tie color and pattern with a pocket square.

A pocket square doesn’t have to be a color to give your suit ensemble a finishing touch—it can be white. And it doesn’t even have to be square—these pocket squares are round.

Mr. Peacock likes to wear feathers as a pocket square. Don’t be afraid to experiment with pocket squares. Find something that works with your personality and taste.

A Peacock in London...

Barima is a dapper peacock who resides in London. He chronicles his personal wardrobe building and sartorial sensibilities on his blog, Style Time.

Mr. Peacock: How would you describe your own style?

Barima: “Offbeat formality”—an idiosyncratic interpretation of traditional Western gentleman's dress.

Mr. P: What's your favorite item in your wardrobe? 

Barima: A double-breasted dark blue Lanvin suit with white pinstripes handed down from my father.

Above: Barima proudly wearing his Junya Wantanabe jacket with panache.

Mr. P: Do you have a particular item of clothing you're obsessed with? 

Barima: I'd say odd jackets and sport coats—a variety in those particular pieces allows me to cycle my looks rather effectively.

Above: Summer elegance ala Barima style.

Mr. P: Do you wear vintage clothes or only "new" clothes?

Barima: Why not both? I follow certain contemporary fashion collections and purchase their offerings through discounts. I'm also committed to second hand and vintage shopping, I inherit some very well kept garments from my father dating back to the early 1980s, and I also throw in the odd attractive piece from high street stores, which I believe are referred to as "mall brands" in America.

Above: Barima customized his Junya Watanabe Comme des Garcon Spring/Summer 2008 (at left) bright pastel safari jacket (made of recut Lacoste polo shirts) and dyed it a more versatile purple (at right).

Mr. P: Do you make any of your clothes?

Barima: I don't, but I've begun customizing various pieces with my friends, as occasionally detailed at Style Time. I'm also learning to sew in order to replace buttons and make minor repairs. I may just undertake a clothes-constructing course, since various people keep intimating that I should.

Above: Style time—Barima channeling Fred Astaire while clubbing.

Mr. P: Who or what has influenced your style?

Barima: My father, the "Gilded Age" of the early 20th century, the 1970s, the 1980s, Doctor Who and any particularly egregious errors made by hipsters, celebrities and pop stars using traditional clothes—I love a cautionary tale.

Above: Junya Watanbe's Spring/Summer 2008 collection particulary struck a chord with Barima—it's his ideal summertime aesthetic.

Mr. P: Do you have a favorite menswear designer or brand?

Barima: Junya Watanabe. He focuses on a different male archetype each and every season, but the subtle adjustment in his collections of late in presenting similar-but-different visions of gentlemen has indicated an emphasis on wardrobe building that is always key to developing a style.

Mr. P: Tote bag or satchel?

Barima: A Billingham camera bag.

Mr. P: What would be your dream purchase right now? 

Barima: Anything from Stefano Pilati's Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Autumn/Winter 2008 collection—a celebration and reinvigoration of the playboys and mods of the 1960s and '70s is always going to appeal to me (see above).

Mr. P: Any sartorial disasters you can share?

Barima: Plenty, I'm certain. My grunge phase as a teen in the 90s morphed into a geek phase and then into a hip hop phase, although the last one was at least more accurate to the source material than the others. And shoot me if I ever wear open shirts exposing t-shirts underneath them with bright coloured cords again.

Mr. P: Any menswear trends you adore or abhor?

Barima: As a man of an allegedly athletic build, the skinny trend is deeply irritating and its ubiquity is pretty dull. When the stars align in the correct manner, I'll have trousers custom made so that I can give certain older pairs a rest and continue to walk in comfort.

I'm pleased that smart garments are still produced, but they're worn so haphazardly by the masses. Terrible jeans and sport coat ensembles; fellows trying to make scarves out of neckties; the prevalence of square-toed shoes, even by people you'd expect to know better. It all makes for amusing people watching.


Mr. P: Has any film or song influenced your style?

Barima: A great many! Iconically speaking, Michael Jackson's promo video and Motown 25 performances of Billie Jean; Fred Astaire in Shall We Dance and Easter Parade in particular (see video below); James Brown's live shows; When We Were Kings; the original The Thomas Crown Affair; The Bitch, which stars Joan Collins; videos of 1960s bands such as the Kinks (see montage video above); The Great Gatsby, and too many to mention from the future-kitsch, hyper produced and heavily eclectic music genre of Japanese picopop.


Above: A fella with an umbrella!
Mr. Peacock is inspired by Barima's flair to pull together his stylish wardrobe with his own panache (and look fantastic in a fuller cut pant too). Be sure to stop by Style Time to see more of Barima's flair and musings. Thanks Barima!